Here’s how I use Suki Skincare’s Body Must-Haves Kit, which includes their Hydrating Body Oil, Ultra-Protect Body Balm, and Natural Bristle Dry Brush, to create my Flawless Leg Shave Routine.
]]>The online beauty magazine Hello Giggles recently asked my opinion on what to look for in a shaving cream in an article on their website. (The article is also listed on this website in the Media Mentions section.)
If you're not interested in my gentle waxing services, then read on for my flawless shaving routine!
I expressed that the best shaving method for extremely sensitive skin is to use a body oil! Here’s how I use Suki Skincare’s Body Must-Haves Kit, which includes their Hydrating Body Oil, Ultra-Protect Body Balm, and Natural Bristle Dry Brush to shave my legs.
Flawless Shave Routine
1. With gentle upward strokes, use the dry brush to release ingrown hairs.
2. Wet your skin, then apply the Hydrating Body Oil. Massage to create an emulsion.
3. Shave in your desired direction. Shaving against the hair growth direction gives a closer shave; shaving with the hair growth direction gives a gentler shave. Wipe the razor on a dry towel as needed to remove hair from the blade.
4. After drying your legs with a towel, apply the Ultra-Protect Body Balm to extra-dry-skin areas like knees, cuticles and heels.
5. Your skin will stay glowing until your next shower. Exfoliate twice a week to prevent ingrown hairs. Suki Exfoliating Foaming Cleanser is my favorite!
Want to experience these products for yourself? Visit me in my studio for an Organic Full Body Scrub or check my online store as I continue to add Suki products. You may need to call me at (615) 669-0386 to check availability as these products move fast.
You can also visit sukiskincare.com to purchase these great products and take advantage of my coupon codes!
Use the code “virtualfacial” to receive 20% off any purchase of $100 or more, or the code “stephanie” to receive 15% off any product.
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In my studio, I usually complete a glowing facial treatment by applying I Conceal by IMAGE Skincare. It is a mineral makeup base packed with Vitamin C, peptides, and hyaluronic acid, so it’s like a skin treatment, makeup and SPF 30 all in one.
It will not clog your pores or cause acne; in fact, it will balance and clear your skin! It has wonderful buildable coverage and a natural hydrating finish that is not heavy.
A great aspect of this makeup is that the colors are neutral and the shades are designed to blend perfectly with your skin’s Fitzpatrick type.
]]>In my studio, I usually complete a glowing facial treatment by applying a mineral BB cream. I Conceal by IMAGE Skincare is my favorite. It is a mineral makeup base that is packed with Vitamin C, peptides, and hyaluronic acid, so it’s like a skin treatment, makeup and SPF 30 all in one.
It will not clog your pores or cause acne; in fact, it will balance and clear your skin! It has wonderful buildable coverage and a natural hydrating finish that is not heavy.
A great aspect of this makeup is that the colors are neutral and the shades are based on blending perfectly with your skin’s Fitzpatrick type. Follow the Image Skincare guide below to learn which color is for you!
Fitzpatrick 1
“Pale skin that is easily burned by the sun. These individuals usually have red hair and freckles, while some have blonde hair and blue eyes. Those in this category are at high risk for skin cancer. I Conceal makeup in Porcelain is the best match for these skin tones.”
Fitzpatrick 2 & 3
“Individuals who have type 2 or 3 skin have blue or green eyes. Type 2 skin tends to burn easily, while those with type 3 skin are more likely to tan in the sun. People with type 2 skin may develop scars if they spend too much time in the sun and may be slow to heal, while type 3 skin types are less at risk for vascular damage. I Conceal foundations in Natural and Beige, respectively, are recommended for these skin types.”
Fitzpatrick 4
“Type 4 skin is darker and tends to scar easily. Individuals with this skin type have rich brown hair and green, hazel or brown eyes. I Conceal Foundation in Suede is the most suitable match for this skin type.”
Fitzpatrick 5
“Those with Type 5 skin have black or brown hair and eyes of the same color. These individuals are very unlikely to burn in the sun. However, those with type 5 skin are very prone to keloid scarring. Toffee is the I Conceal Foundation best suited for Type 5 skin.”
Fitzpatrick 6
“Finally, people with Type 6 complexions have black or dark brown hair and dark eyes. Their skin may never burn in the sun. While Type 6 skin is prone to keloid scarring as well, these individuals are at very low risk for pigmented skin issues caused by the sun. The I Conceal that matches best with Type 6 skin is Mocha.”
The I Conceal Foundation collection is available at my studio and in my web store.
]]>Full confession here: I’m not 30 anymore. Long gone are the days of not having a dedicated skin care routine.
After 40 it takes a little more... effort... to get the same result that I used to get from using a scrub a few times a week and running out the door. The good news is, that it is never too late to have glowing skin. NEVER!
Here’s how.
Begin with a Basic Skincare Routine
Before you can turbo-boost your skin routine, you will need to have a basic skin care routine in place.
Cleanse: 1-2 times daily
Exfoliate: 2-3 times a week with a physical exfoliant like scrubs, masks, facial brushes, etc.
Tone: After cleansing or exfoliating, tone to balance the skin’s PH and prep it to accept beneficial ingredients
Correct: Use a serum, treatment cream, or medicines to reduce unwanted features like redness, acne, or fine lines
Protect: Use oils, moisturizers, and SPFs to maintain moisture in the skin and protect it from the elements
If you are a minimalist like me, you may be doing all of these things with less steps if your cleanser is also an exfoliant, or your moisturizer is a treatment cream, etc. Combining steps is ok. The key is to consistently use quality ingredients that are appropriate for your skin type.
Five-Ingredient Anti-Aging Cocktail
I often refer to these five ingredients as the “anti-aging cocktail.” Wouldn’t it be delightful if you could mix up a drink that gave you youthful skin? I’d be ordering it all the time!
But just as your body needs certain nutrients inside to be healthy, your skin needs many of the same types of nutrients applied to the surface of the skin.
You are most likely already using some of these ingredients. The idea is to add the ones you lack to your routine to give you better results. Again, if you are a minimalist, it may be easier to swap a product you are using for a multi-tasking one (say a cleanser or mask that simultaneously exfoliates, corrects, and hydrates the skin, while delivering one or two ingredients from this list.)
Here are some key ingredients that I recommend in my skin care practice.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid is a hydrating substance found in the body that binds moisture to skin cells. When you use this ingredient in your skin care, you will get that instant dewy effect seen in celebrity photos. It is like a drink of water for your skin cells, and is able to instantly reduce the look of fine lines, bumpy texture, and enlarged pores.
It can be found in many products from cleansers to moisturizers. It also protects collagen in the skin, which helps firm the skin from underneath. (Yay collagen!)
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is an essential antioxidant that every human should be using in their skin care routine. Vitamin C slows aging from environmental damage, heals blemishes and scars, prevents dark spots, and protects collagen in the skin by fighting the “bad guys” in the cells that attack collagen. Collagen is like the springs in your couch, providing structure and firmness. (Yay collagen!)
Resveratrol
Resveratrol is another super-antioxidant that is derived from grapes. It is the same stuff in a glass of wine that can improve your health. In the skin, it simply slows aging and strengthens cells. It’s so effective that I feel like when I’m using it, some of my smaller facial lines actually go away.
Vitamin A Retinols
Retinol from vitamin A is an indispensable ingredient to the anti-aging cocktail. It make skin cells “act younger” by speeding up cell renewal (a huge factor in signs of aging). This gives your face a smooth, polished appearance.
It keeps the pores free from bacteria and dead skin cells, reducing acne and making pores less noticeable. It boosts collagen production in the skin by stimulating it to produce more (collagen production stops around age 40), and discouraging the “bad guys” in the cells that attack it (Yay collagen!).
All of this adds up to smoother, tighter, firmer skin, with less signs of aging. Retinol can be gentle and plant-derived, or synthetic with harsh side-effects. Less is more, in my opinion, so I use a natural retinol that is plant-based, which doesn’t irritate my sensitive skin.
Brighteners
Plant-derived brighteners like those found in licorice root and bearberry prevent and fade dark spots and scars in the skin, and are gentle enough to use even in summer months.
Take stock of the ingredients you are using now, and add the ones you are missing.
A great source of antioxidants is Suki Skincare’s Even-tone Brightening Serum, which is high in Vitamin C, resveratrol, and brighteners. It works well for all ages.
Suki Skincare Facial Oils (Nourishing Facial Oil & Balancing Facial Oil) are also full of antioxidants, vitamins, and help maintain moisture and elasticity in the skin. Two or three drops under or mixed with a moisturizer are all you need for game-changing results.
Suki Skincare Radical Results Youth Serum and Facial Lift Ultimate Firming Cream are both high in every ingredient in this list, and are perfect to round out a basic routine. These ingredients will work together to take your skin to the next level!
Don’t worry if you are new to skin care. Start with a simple routine and add baby steps as you go. You will enjoy gradual results as you learn the ingredients to which your skin responds.
Stay beautiful!
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During my time as an aesthetics instructor, I learned that not everyone has the same tolerance to waxing and threading.
My threading and waxing technique is customized so that all skin types have an experience that is as comfortable as possible.
Client comfort takes priority over speed. In addition, there will be less breakage, so you will have a longer-lasting wax/thread, with less regrowth.
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In general, those with oily skin have a higher pain tolerance. My threading and waxing technique is customized so that all skin types have an experience that is as comfortable as possible.
Client comfort takes priority over speed. In addition, there will be less breakage, so you will have a longer-lasting wax/thread, with less regrowth.
How long should my hair be for waxing? Hair length must be between ¼-½ inch long at the time of waxing.
When is the best time to wax? Be aware that hormonal changes can increase sensitivity, so conditions such as adolescence, pregnancy, or being within one week of your cycle can increase discomfort. You must avoid sun exposure for at least 3 days after waxing.
How long does threading last? Threading is usually scheduled every 5 weeks, and new hair growth becomes visible around weeks 2 to 3. New hair will be thinner and lighter in color.
How long does waxing last? Waxing is usually scheduled every 4 weeks, with new growth becoming visible around week 2. Like threading, the new hair growth will be thinner and lighter in color.
Can I thread or wax if I use Retin-A? Threading is safe for all skin types, and while using Retin-A, Tretinoin, and prescription acne medications. The above prescription products cause the skin to become very thin and delicate. As a result, waxing is not recommended, as it can lift delicate skin, leaving a scab.
How can I avoid developing ingrown hairs after waxing? On day 3 after your waxing treatment, I encourage you to use a gentle scrub on the site where the waxing occurred. This will enable the fine baby hairs to emerge from the surface without any irritation. Thereafter it is recommended to exfoliate with a gentle scrub 2 to 3 times per week.
My skin changed when I was 36. Here’s how things went down. While I was enjoying a fun evening with friends drinking wine, laughing and relaxing, I happened to stroll down the hallway with my glass of red wine. I was admiring all of the art on the walls, and the glowing light that the lamp cast on the textured wallpaper, when I noticed a movement out of the corner of my eye. I turned toward a mirror to see what it was and there I caught a reflection of myself I had never seen before. There it was; the familiar face, the inquisitive eyebrows, fair skin and hair, but something else was there too. Right there in the middle of my cheeks were two giant red stripes. I looked like a cartoon of myself blushing out of embarrassment. Immediately I felt annoyed, which only made the effect worsen. I remember leaning back on one hip, and cocking my head to the side I said out loud to myself, “Oh it’s like that, is it?”
This is how I discovered the beginning signs of my own rosy complexion. Don’t get me wrong, being a lover of all things french and Parisian, I love rose colored glasses, but as you most likely know, the constant inflammatory condition that leads to rosy cheeks is not fun.
In my situation, symptoms such as rosy cheeks whenever I drink wine or eat spicy food, exaggerated pore size in my t-zone, sensitivity to certain ingredients and extreme temperature changes in the environment are something I contend with daily.
In my awesome job as an aesthetician, I meet many amazing people that share these traits. Their symptoms range from subtle to extreme. Many of them are in varying degrees of discomfort most of the time. While some can’t place the cause of what is triggering redness in their skin, others are all too aware of it. One example was a lady I had the privilege to help who worked as a nurse in an operating room and had to wear a facial mask all day long. Her skin was extremely irritated from that mask rubbing on her skin. Eyeglasses that are constantly worn have been known to do something similar as well as CPAP machine masks.
This experience piqued my curiosity, so I began researching skin disorders that feature rosy cheeks. Of the many conditions I researched, Rosacea, Lupus, and Dermatomyositis come to mind. Since I’m not a doctor or a nurse I cannot claim to diagnose or treat any of those disorders, but the symptoms that they share can be improved a great deal at home, with a little knowledge of skin care and nutrition.
I know many people that have been diagnosed with Rosacea and similar conditions who have used prescriptions from doctors that improved their symptoms marginally, but not to their satisfaction.
I know others that have used over the counter skin care lines, with limited effect as well. The reason for their limited progress is that the triggers for the symptoms of these chronic disorders are found not only on the surface of the skin, but also internally.
I take a holistic approach to everything from skin breakouts, to redness, and mature skin concerns like firmness, elasticity, and wrinkles. I find that I get limited results if all of my efforts are on the surface.
Skin needs to be supported above the surface, with calming agents, below the surface of the skin with antioxidants, and from inside the body with nutrition in a three-dimensional way.
M&M therapy. I’m partial to peanut M&M’s, so, I want you to imagine a peanut M&M in your mind. The sweet, colorful shell, the creamy milk chocolate, and lastly that crunchy peanut in the middle. Got that image? OK we are going to examine each layer of this M&M as a way to treat rosy cheeks and all of the irritating symptoms that go along with them.
The Surface. The crunchy shell is like the surface of the skin. This is where most of our symptoms are present. Because of chronic inflammation and erythema (swelling and redness that is present In the skin), it’s important that every step of your skin care regimen be calming, healing, and protective.
Most of us are familiar with steps of a basic skin care regimen: 1-cleanse 2-exfoliate 3-tone 4-correct 5-moisturize/protect.
For the minimalist, this routine might look like washing your face in the shower with soap, an occasional scrub with a facial scrub or loofah sponge, and a little moisturizer. As a minimalist myself, I’m on-board with simplicity, but I’d like to suggest something more customized, gentle and healing.
Step 1- Cleanse. A good cleanser would be one with a creamy texture that will remove make up and impurities without stripping the skin of the things it needs such as beneficial oils the way foaming cleansers and soaps can. Some good plant derived ingredients would be chamomile, aloe and seaweed which are anti-inflammatory.
Antibacterial and anti-microbial ingredients are important as well, because researchers have found a correlation between people with the symptoms of rosacea, and a sensitivity to a microbe called a Demodex.
Do you like spiders?
Without getting too graphic, the Demodex is a microbial mite, a spider-like arachnid that lives on the surface of the skin of most people (ok, that was graphic!), but those with the symptoms of rosacea and other inflammatory conditions show sensitivity to it, almost like an allergic reaction, increasing redness, and irritation on the skin.
Anti-bacterial ingredients such as Sunflower oil, Rosemary, Tea tree, and Palmarosa essential oils, are helpful to both smother the microbe by depriving it of oxygen, and killing it by evil anti-microbial means. (Writer laughs maniacally)
On to step 2, exfoliation, removal of dead skin cells.... The best exfoliants for sensitive, inflamed skin would be the kind that dissolve dead skin cells without causing any violence to the skin. Some excellent examples include the iconic clay mask. I like clay masques that contain Kaolin clay which is also brightening, remineralizing and balancing to the skin.
Enzyme exfoliants such as those that contain papaya, pineapple, or rice enzymes, or those with alpha hydroxy acids do a wonderful job of gently and effectively exfoliating the skin. These can be found in the form of gentle cleansers, masques, serums or creamy exfoliants that you apply to the skin and remove after 10 minutes. (No scrubbing needed)
Skinceutical's “Simply Clean” cleanser, Voya’s "Luminosity," and Radiance exfoliants as well as their award-winning “Get Glowing” clay mask are a few of my favorites.
For the DIY crowd, citrus juices and pineapple juice will exfoliate if left on the skin for 1-5 minutes, but take care to balance the skin afterward with a toner.
Step 3-Tone! Toners that are alcohol-free are best, and those with soothing ingredients to calm and hydrate such as rose water, or green tea are great to restore the skin to its natural pH, reducing sensitivity.
Step 4-Correct. I find that in my own case I need to use something daily that actively reduces redness in a more assertive way. There are many medical grade skin care products on the market whose job it is to be anti-inflammatory and anti-redness and antibacterial. The one I use is the Phyto-Corrective gel by Skinceuticals which does all of the above and reduces the temperature of the skin by 5°. I use this morning and night or as needed, and I also use it on my clients after waxing, it’s incredibly soothing. Aloe Vera gel can also be helpful to soothe mild cases of redness.
For those with moderate to extreme cases of redness on the skin, I would encourage visiting a doctor for a formal diagnosis and prescription.
One antibiotic and anti-microbial medicine that is commonly prescribed by dermatologists for Rosacea is called Metrogel. Azelaic acid is an ingredient found in both prescription and over-the-counter products, and both treatments get good reviews from patients.
5-Moisturize/Protect Follow those ingredients with a highly protective moisturizer. Something non-irritating, that will truly replenish the barrier of your skin. A simple way to do this is to add a drop or two of a calming face oil to the skin before applying moisturizer. The facial oil should be one that won’t clog the pores, that will calm the skin and potentially smother any microbes that are on the surface. I have a few organic favorites, the “My Little Hero” oil serum by Voya which contains anti-inflammatory organic seaweed, “Supremely Lit," by the Farm House Fresh company which contains both vitamin C and hemp, and of course there’s good old-fashioned sunflower oil, vitamin E oil, and evening Primrose oil, a combination of which would make an excellent face oil for the DIY crowd.
If your skin is on the oily side an alternate method would be to use an oil to actually cleanse your skin, by massaging the oil on to dry skin, and then wipe it off with a damp cloth. This will both break down your make up, remove impurities, and replenish the lipid barrier of the skin just enough to protect it but not enough to make it greasy or oily. My favorites are organic Jojoba, Sunflower, and Voya’s Angelicus Serratus oil, which contains both oils above, and calming organic seaweed.
SPF. Lastly, a mineral-based sunscreen that’s safe for sensitive skin, something containing zinc and hopefully no harmful chemicals or parabens will protect your skin from sun exposure which can be a trigger for inflamed skin. These steps are game-changers.
Professional Guidance. I often recommend that my clients who have skin care goals such as less inflammation and redness to have periodic professional skin care treatments at the spa with a certified skin care expert who can help them tweak their at-home regimen and boost their results with professional-strength ingredients.
My favorite method is like a workout for the skin. To improve muscle tone, you have to do the next workout session before the last one wears off. Similarly, I recommend that those who want to see dramatic results do several professional skin care treatments close together, 2-3 weeks apart for a building result. After that, we tweak the at-home regimen to maintain the results. These are comprehensive, professional-grade treatments customized to each individual’s needs.
Some professional treatments that are beneficial for mild to inflamed skin (after restoring the integrity of the skin through gentle facials and at-home-products) include gentle peels, such as those containing lactic and glycolic acids, oxygen facials (Intraceuticals is great) and the Hydrafacial (not for severely inflamed skin, but beneficial to rebuild skin with mild to moderate symptoms).
Support the Skin From Below. The second layer of the M&M is the creamy milk chocolate layer, and I want you to imagine this as the skin from underneath.
Just as there are ways to soothe the skin on the surface, there are ways to encourage and support healthy skin from within. One of those is to use a topical vitamin C serum. Vitamin C is one of the nutrients that the human body cannot produce on its own. When used on the surface of the skin It works as an antioxidant within the skin to help reduce inflammation below the surface.
Research has shown that 20% is the best level of vitamin C, more than that is overkill and potentially irritating to the skin. Within two weeks of using a 20% vitamin C serum, you will notice that your skin has an even, all-over peachy glow with less blotchiness. This will improve the way your skin feels and looks, and you will need less makeup to cover redness.
The number one best selling vitamin C serum in the states is at this time is CE Ferulic by Skinceuticals. CE Ferulic is a hydrating formula which can be used daily to slow and prevent dark spots and scars, and strengthen and reduce inflammation in the skin. You can even use it under your sunscreen at the beach to help prevent sun damage.
There are many vitamin C serums out there. Vitamin C products should be packaged in solid or dark glass containers kept away from light. You will know if they’re working after using them for two weeks. You should see a visible change in your skin that’s almost like a blur effect reducing blotchiness. If there is none or minimal change, that means that you need a higher percentage of vitamin C. Liquid serums are applied in the “correct” step: after toner and before oils or moisturizers.
The Peanut. Lastly, that peanut on the inside of the M & M: I want you to imagine that this represents what you put in your body. Just as there are foods that can trigger inflammation in the skin, there are foods that can help support the body to reduce inflammation.
Probiotics. Probiotics have been shown to reduce the H. Pylori bacteria in the gut. This bacteria has been linked to immunological disorders such as rosacea, lupus, stomach ulcers, and gastric cancer. If you have too much detrimental bacteria in your stomach your gut may feel bloated, you’ll have greater symptoms of fatigue and stress, and your skin will have more inflammation and redness.
You could take a probiotic supplement, to help colonize your gut with beneficial bacteria, but a faster-acting solution is to include foods that are naturally high in probiotics as a daily part of your diet.
Some of the fastest acting probiotic food options are organic whole milk kefir, (or water kefir if you’re sensitive to dairy), fermented foods such as sauerkraut and kimchi, and probiotic teas such as those containing kombucha.
Anecdotally, I have found that consuming a heaping tablespoon of any fermented food daily and or an ounce or two of kefir transforms the way I feel on the inside and outside in as little as three days. I like to consume these items with fresh fruit or vegetables like salad or soup, which sends the probiotic enzymes into my system with a snack for later, called a prebiotic.
The goal is to create a village inside your gut of the “good guys” to help your body process and absorb nutrients with less inflammation. Less inflammation in the gut means less inflammation in the skin. A bonus of this process is a boost in my energy levels, less stress and better sleep as well.
Water. I must talk water for a moment. Any time the gut is inflamed, all processes slow down until the situation is remedied. That means the resources your skin needs like water and nutrients are re-routed to the battle zone.
Thus it is very, very important to have enough water in your system. It’s recommended that we each drink half our body weight in ounces of water a day (caffeinated beverages and alcoholic beverages do not count) If you perspire a lot, or are very physically active, you need even more water.
Something that can help you absorb water are electrolytes. Good sources for electrolytes are “Emergen-C” and the 365 Electrolyte Powder which is organic and can be found at Whole Foods and other natural grocery stores. Both are low in sugar and don’t contain artificial sweeteners. (Artificial sweeteners are your enemy if you have redness and inflammation in the skin. They destroy digestion by killing the good flora in your gut, and have actually been linked to weight gain and a slew of other side-effects. The only exception to this would be something naturally derived like Stevia, and if you can tolerate the flavor- hats off to you! )
Other natural electrolyte sources are Aloe juice and coconut water. One serving of any of these electrolytes is enough to make drinking enough water easier.
Take Baby Steps. I know all this information is overwhelming. I want you to think of it in terms of baby steps. Start with more calming products on the skin, add them to your routine one at a time so you’ll see the effect each of them has on your skin for the better. You can then make baby changes to your diet to soothe the gut and reduce inflammation from the inside.
With this 3-D approach, you should see changes within a few weeks.
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Acne is a pain in the ass. It affects your self-esteem. It affects your bank account. Acne hurts. There are endless product lines on the market that may or may not change your skin. It can be an overwhelming quest for improvement. Here’s the process I use in the treatment room to sleuth out what is and isn’t working and get fast results.
1. Treat the Skin Type. Acne affects individuals of every age and skin type. Your skin type is a description of the oil levels in your skin, normally described as Normal, Oily, Dry, or Combination (Normal/Oily, Normal/Dry). Normal skin isn’t very normal at all. Most people have some version of combination skin, Your skin type may evolve slightly over time, usually less oil is produced by the body as we age, but it’s rare to switch to a completely new skin type. Skincare used should balance your skin type first, so products for oily skin will absorb oil and products for dry skin will contain beneficial oils. If you are using the right products, your skin should mimic the look of “normal” skin, not too shiny or dry, with a satin finish. Try matte sunscreens to absorb oil and keep makeup fresh longer.
2. Nutrition. Eating whole foods, and meats that are hormone and antibiotic-free will reduce the magnitude of breakouts. One of my sensitive skin clients who ate a typical American diet, went to Honduras for 3 weeks, where there was no fast food or processed meats, and came back with 70% less acne. My daughter became a vegetarian and had the same result, eventually, I began recommending diets with clean meat, and miraculously, it improved the skin of all of my clients with acne.
Nutritional deficiency can also cause acne. If your skin clears up dramatically after a week at the beach, you may have a vitamin D deficiency. A vitamin D3 supplement can produce a similar result. This small act has reduced acne in my clients by as much as 30%.
Topical vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that should be included in every acne regimen. It prevents scarring, heals blemishes quickly, and reduces inflammation. A topical solution with between 10 and 20% vitamin C gives the skin a healthy peachy glow, reducing blotchiness within 2 weeks of use.
3- Sensitivity Acne caused by food allergies or sensitivities will show up randomly, and have a connect-the-dots appearance, with small red bumps that are evenly spaced out. Some food allergies have very few symptoms, often the only symptoms will be random breakouts and dark circles or puffiness around the eyes. Allergists recommend that you have your food allergies tested every 3 years because a new sensitivity can occur at any time. I find that individuals are intuitive, and usually have a hunch about foods their bodies may be sensitive to. It’s usually a food that is eaten on a daily or weekly basis. Eliminate that food for 2-3 weeks and your skin will improve.
Sensitivity to the sun can cause a similar polka-dot appearance, but a sun allergy such as Polymorphous Light Eruption will occur within hours of sun exposure and subside in the absence of sun. Additional sensitivities can be from acne product ingredients, detergents, and sunscreen chemicals.
4. Culprits. Ingredients that won’t clog pores are termed non-comedogenic. You can usually google an ingredient to see if it is comedogenic (causes blemishes). Google the Comedogenic Scale for Oils, and you will find that oils that have a rating of 0 will never clog pores. Oils are integral to healthy skin, and a complete lack of them leads to fissures and cracks in the skin that can trigger acne. Some non-comedogenic oils are Jojoba, Sunflower oil, and hemp, and there are many more. Don’t be afraid to use a face oil to balance and protect sensitive skin. In the treatment room, I create custom oil blends for my clients that have essential oils to balance their skin. One of my favorite oils is hemp oil which is balancing and anti-inflammatory, and you only need a few drops under your moisturizer or mixed with moisturizer to soothe sensitivity and improve moisture levels. Make sure the oils in your skincare are non-comedogenic.
Another pore-clogging ingredient is artificial color added to makeup. Teens that switched from typical makeup brands like MAC to mineral companies like Glo Minerals, Bare Minerals, and Jane Iredale saw a 60% reduction in acne. My daughter was one, she had stage 2 acne with whiteheads and blackheads, and when she switched to mineral makeup her acne drastically improved. It was more beneficial than all of the professional treatments I performed on her. If you must have non-mineral makeup, at least use a primer, base, and concealer that have mineral pigments instead of artificial. This will protect your skin.
Lastly, there are a few habits that contribute to acne. Teens that play sports, and adults who frequent the gym tend to have increased blackheads, Wearing an antibacterial product on the skin with 2% Salicylic Acid during sports and working out will kill bacteria and discourage blackheads. In my classes, I encounter gym-goers with backs broken out from the friction of their bra straps, horseback-riders and football players with helmet acne, breakouts from eyeglasses and sunglasses rubbing the nose, frequent phone users with acne on their cheeks, and both old and young adults with more blemishes on the side of the face they sleep on most frequently. It is beneficial to keep anti-bacterial face wipes in the gym bag, the locker, the desk at work, and wipe glasses and phones down with an alcohol wipe frequently.
5. Less is more. Less really is more. Try the above tips, and then if you still have acne, try acne treatments from gentle to potent in that order. Acne ingredients that are gentle include essential oils such as tea tree, lemongrass, and lavender. Three drops of each in an ounce of Jojoba oil makes a great acne-fighting blend. A few drops on clean skin before bed or workouts etc is all that is needed for most, especially if the above concerns are being managed.
A clay masque can work wonders to dry and clear acne when used 3 times a week and maybe left on the skin overnight as a spot treatment to bring blemishes to a head. Salicylic acid will get down into the pores to treat both blackheads and whiteheads and is safe for sensitive skin. Benzoyl peroxide is great for whiteheads and inflamed acne, as is a .25% retinol cream. Dilute strong acne creams with a gentle moisturizer to reduce dryness and irritation. Gradually increase the amount of acne product in the mixture as your skin becomes accustomed to it.
How Often Should I get a Treatment? I always encourage individuals who want dramatic results to do their first few professional acne treatments at the spa spaced close together, about 2-3 weeks apart. This allows the therapist to tweak the at-home regimen for better results and ensures that skin treatments such as microdermabrasion and peels impact the skin quickly.
Helping an individual to balance their skin and move past acne is one of the most exciting and meaningful experiences that I have in my career as a holistic skincare therapist. If this resonates with you, please reach out to me at (615) 669-0386 or at stephaniesmithskincare@gmail.com for a consultation.
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